Dover Street Market launches first beauty-dedicated, parisian store—a continuation of parent company Comme des Garçons’ flexible growth.

WHAT HAPPENED: Dover Street Market, Comme des Garçons’ retail concept, will open a 2,150-square-foot beauty store this spring, selling the brand’s 60 fragrances in addition to cosmetics from third-party brands.

Why it matters

  • Comme des Garçons (CDG) launched Dover Street Market (DSM) in 2004, selling both CDG’s own brands and a range of luxury and streetwear brands via wholesale deals. Over time, DSM has gained a reputation as a cultural hub and artistic destination. The retail concept, which revamps its brand assortment and interior design twice a year (a process controlled by the brands themselves, while CDG handles inventory and operations), now accounts for 35% of CDG’s overall revenue.
  • CDG has evolved its holding company and ecosystem in a way that builds off of backend expertise to experiment with new concepts on the front end—the Paris store reflects this flexible growth not only by extending DSM to a new city, but also by attending to the cosmetics sector, which currently comprises less than 3% of CDG’s total sales. CDG began designing and packaging perfume manufactured and sold by the Barcelona-based company Puig in 2002. It later licensed Comme des Garçons Parfums to Puig (which holds licenses to 40% of CDG’s fragrances today) while also creating an autonomous brand, Comme des Garçons Parfums Parfums for a more experimental line whose production and distribution is controlled solely by CDG. Now with a beauty-focused DSM, its perfume brand will be even more vertically integrated, while still existing as an experimental playground for other cosmetics brands and concepts. This may also be a way to enter a promising product category, but in a more frugal way—the last location to open in LA is 21,500 square feet, or ten times the square footage of the planned Paris store.